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ASK AUNT BECKY will answer a selected question once a month. Questions will be limited to general topics rather than specific ones such as who is the real owner of the fourth row of Batard Montrachet or what she thinks of a particular wine.

Tuesday, March 27, 2007

Should I hold out for the 2005's?

Dear Aunt Becky,

I have heard that the 2005 vintage is the best ever and I am wondering if I ought to skip other vintages in order to purchase as many bottles as I can as I hear that the demand will be colossal.

Regards,

Robert L.


Dear Robert,

I am of the firm opinion that great vintages are a question of retrospection. While it is very tempting to rush to immediate judgment, especially if the weather has been custom made for producing wines, the results often deviate from the projections. Certain vintages here in Burgundy, great vintages on the hoof, have closed as firmly as the master safe in JP Morgan's vaults once in bottle. Certain great vintages behave brilliantly when young then fade for no apparent reason. Others, overtly tannic and belligerent, soften and become elegant. There is still a lot of mystery about the whole process, thank goodness. Therefore, if you have faith in what is written early in the game, save up and spend, spend, spend on the newcomer. Otherwise, hedge your bets, look for the overlooked, and limit your purchases of the 2005 vintage to your favourite producers.

Aunt Becky

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